getting started.
I wasn't actually going to do this considering how debated and controversial crested gecko keeping is! But "what the hell...might as well join the masses!" Firstly! This IS just your basic know how to get you started on the mine field that is husbandry...the rest is for you to experiment, play and trial till you find out what works for you and your gecko! No two crestie keeper is alike...we are special :P
There are many ways to keep crested geckos and information on these guys is constantly improving and changing…the best advice I can give before going on is…There are very few hard and fast rules....the rest is just interpretation! For example's of past and current setups of mine then take a quick peek in HT Cresties and Setups :) |
Housing requirements.
The recommended “off the shelf” requirement for a single adult crested gecko is a 45x45x60 (WxDxHcm) Exo Terra or similar terrarium, with a 45cm cube being your bare min.
If you are wishing to have a live planted setup then attention should be paid to the available space after planting...in this case a 45x45x60 becomes your bare min due to the room required for soil and drainage. If you are considering co-habbing then read further down, But your bare min for housing two will be a 45x45x60 (This is unplanted, for planting, again internal size should be considered) with a 60x45x60 being recommended. You can play around with sizes if you choose to go for a custom built enclosure.
Recommended young crestie housing is smaller at 30x30x45, this is aimed at geckos under 10g, and IMO are only suitable to the max of 20g. Those over 10g can be moved into a large exo but provide multiple feeding stations to start with to ensure s/he is eating. A 9 liter RUB (really useful box) or similar can also be modified with plenty of cross ventilation but as its slightly smaller, i would house no more that a 15g baby in one before upgrading.
For the proper little dinky ducks/ hatchlings, the use of small kritter keepers or well ventilated tubs are very popular to get them started in.
The recommended “off the shelf” requirement for a single adult crested gecko is a 45x45x60 (WxDxHcm) Exo Terra or similar terrarium, with a 45cm cube being your bare min.
If you are wishing to have a live planted setup then attention should be paid to the available space after planting...in this case a 45x45x60 becomes your bare min due to the room required for soil and drainage. If you are considering co-habbing then read further down, But your bare min for housing two will be a 45x45x60 (This is unplanted, for planting, again internal size should be considered) with a 60x45x60 being recommended. You can play around with sizes if you choose to go for a custom built enclosure.
Recommended young crestie housing is smaller at 30x30x45, this is aimed at geckos under 10g, and IMO are only suitable to the max of 20g. Those over 10g can be moved into a large exo but provide multiple feeding stations to start with to ensure s/he is eating. A 9 liter RUB (really useful box) or similar can also be modified with plenty of cross ventilation but as its slightly smaller, i would house no more that a 15g baby in one before upgrading.
For the proper little dinky ducks/ hatchlings, the use of small kritter keepers or well ventilated tubs are very popular to get them started in.
Wooden setups may also be used besides Glass...though special attention should be paid to ensure it is sealed properly to prevent moisture getting into the wood. In doing this it will prolong the life of that enclosure, ill sealed viv's can lead to warping and mold.
Converted fish tanks and plastic tub's are also very popular choices in housing, just ensure that its big enough and has height! You will be more limited with these two options in terms of heating and lighting so bear that in mind when deciding :) I personally do not however recommend Repti-breeze/fully mesh enclosures. Mainly as they hold humidity very poorly unless modifications are made. Crested geckos are starting to be thought as Crepuscular (meaning dawn and dusk) not nocturnal. For this Crepuscular species you will need to provide LOT’S of coverage and branches throughout the enclosure. Both Plastic and Live plants can be used to decorate, though i recommend investing in a plant grow bulb or Jungle Dawn LED to help promote plant growth if going live. Fallen wood can be used from outside but avoid anything that is Pine/evergreen/soft wood due to toxins. |
Substrates
Crested geckos are a humidity loving species and the substrate you choose can help you maintain this. There are some fears with keepers about impaction, whereas others not so much. With this in mind, it IS personal preference.
Commonly used substrates include:
Crested geckos are a humidity loving species and the substrate you choose can help you maintain this. There are some fears with keepers about impaction, whereas others not so much. With this in mind, it IS personal preference.
Commonly used substrates include:
- Coarse Orchid bark (some will debate this one)
- Eco Earth
- Top soil/ Compost (must be free of treatments, fert's and pesticides)
- Leaf litter/moss/bioactive mixes
- Lino
- Kitchen roll (recommended for hatchlings though can be used with adults).
Temperatures and Heating
Both temperatures and Heating methods are constantly disputed within the crested gecko community. As it stands there are multiple ways of providing heating and a big range of temperatures that you can maintain. Below lists the more common ways to do with temperatures needed for each.
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The Recommended Method: One of the most recommended ways of heating your enclosure is with a Ceramic bulb (75w-100w), in a Dome & ceramic holder, connected to a Pulse or Dimmer thermostat. The aim for this method is to provide a gradient with the top temps (basking spot) being 29-30c and allowing the rest of the enclosure to have a gradient (meaning to have varying cooler temps) running down to allow your gecko to thermal-regulate (pick where they are happiest) as they see fit. A light emitting bulb on a Dimmer stat or Canopy (pay attention to max bulb wattage) can also be used though bear in mind that this should be switched off in the evening. You can also use this method to *bump your normal ambient if you wish to not have as high a basking as 29-30c.
Personally for thermostat & thermometer probe placement: The probes should be anchored to the nearest basking point/branch to the ceramic.
Those using a small enclosure for younger geckos will need to have a play around with a lower wattage bulb and basking spot temperature. The lack of height compared to that of a 45x45x60cm means that a gradient is harder to achieve or you can go to one of the alternative methods. Not suitable for direct contact to glass or RUB and other plastic modified tub.
Alternative: Other ways to keep crested geckos include the use of a Heat mat to the outside of your enclosure. Things to note with a heat mat: These are surface heaters only! They will not affect your ambient and as such if your house leans towards the cold side then the recommended method should be used. The are also not a 100% waterproof! therefore always have on the outside. A heat mat will need to be stuck to the side of your enclosure to allow your gecko access and should be stat’ed to a mat stat (basic on/off). This is recommended when using with a modified plastic enclosure.
Probe placement: Personally put the stat probe between the glass and mat on the side, then place you thermometer probe on the inside of the enclosure, on the glass, over the mat.
No heating: There are also many keepers that keep with no additional heating what so ever. In these cases close attention to your seasonal ambient should be monitored..the classic "room temp is fine" is not always fine, room temp is individual to a keeper, not universal :) . This is still an acceptable way to keep your crestie however this is a debated on method (what isn't with cresties?!) as husbandry evolves and constantly improves. Those that provide heat will remark on the improvement they've seen (in colour, appetite and activity). So I will urge you to think on what YOU want to provide before choosing, try not let money factor in your choices if thats all that is putting you off from any of the options :)
With all this in mind, temperatures should be monitored via a digital thermometer or a temp gun and any heating equipment controlled with a stat.
Please note! the dials on a stat aren't always accurate, it is for this reason that when setting up, you should judge the temp by your Digital thermometer and ignore the numbers on the stat! Also, cheap temp and humidity dials are also very inaccurate and prone to breaking, Digital thermometers are not that expensive and do not need to be reptile branded :) check out ebay and amazon.
The Recommended Method: One of the most recommended ways of heating your enclosure is with a Ceramic bulb (75w-100w), in a Dome & ceramic holder, connected to a Pulse or Dimmer thermostat. The aim for this method is to provide a gradient with the top temps (basking spot) being 29-30c and allowing the rest of the enclosure to have a gradient (meaning to have varying cooler temps) running down to allow your gecko to thermal-regulate (pick where they are happiest) as they see fit. A light emitting bulb on a Dimmer stat or Canopy (pay attention to max bulb wattage) can also be used though bear in mind that this should be switched off in the evening. You can also use this method to *bump your normal ambient if you wish to not have as high a basking as 29-30c.
Personally for thermostat & thermometer probe placement: The probes should be anchored to the nearest basking point/branch to the ceramic.
Those using a small enclosure for younger geckos will need to have a play around with a lower wattage bulb and basking spot temperature. The lack of height compared to that of a 45x45x60cm means that a gradient is harder to achieve or you can go to one of the alternative methods. Not suitable for direct contact to glass or RUB and other plastic modified tub.
Alternative: Other ways to keep crested geckos include the use of a Heat mat to the outside of your enclosure. Things to note with a heat mat: These are surface heaters only! They will not affect your ambient and as such if your house leans towards the cold side then the recommended method should be used. The are also not a 100% waterproof! therefore always have on the outside. A heat mat will need to be stuck to the side of your enclosure to allow your gecko access and should be stat’ed to a mat stat (basic on/off). This is recommended when using with a modified plastic enclosure.
Probe placement: Personally put the stat probe between the glass and mat on the side, then place you thermometer probe on the inside of the enclosure, on the glass, over the mat.
No heating: There are also many keepers that keep with no additional heating what so ever. In these cases close attention to your seasonal ambient should be monitored..the classic "room temp is fine" is not always fine, room temp is individual to a keeper, not universal :) . This is still an acceptable way to keep your crestie however this is a debated on method (what isn't with cresties?!) as husbandry evolves and constantly improves. Those that provide heat will remark on the improvement they've seen (in colour, appetite and activity). So I will urge you to think on what YOU want to provide before choosing, try not let money factor in your choices if thats all that is putting you off from any of the options :)
With all this in mind, temperatures should be monitored via a digital thermometer or a temp gun and any heating equipment controlled with a stat.
Please note! the dials on a stat aren't always accurate, it is for this reason that when setting up, you should judge the temp by your Digital thermometer and ignore the numbers on the stat! Also, cheap temp and humidity dials are also very inaccurate and prone to breaking, Digital thermometers are not that expensive and do not need to be reptile branded :) check out ebay and amazon.
Lighting
Yet again debated in the community! With some keepers opting not to use lighting...but here are some great choices i recommend looking at.
Though Cresties do not "need" the provision of UVB lighting, they do need D3 to process Calcium. UVB Lighting provides this in a more natural way for cresties, even when hiding they would be exposed to light scatter. The alternative is using a supplement.
More and more keepers are experimenting and recommending using UVB (myself included), with 5% being the most commonly used percentage at the moment, though i use 10% myself as do others. Those that choose to use UVB have yet again commented on the improvements they have seen with their geckos, with some even openly basking. They give out very little heat so should not be relied on as a form of heating. If you choose UVB then please combine with a reflector to get the most out of your tubes or canopy! Arcadia provide a great range in products for using UVB and i recommend taking a look.
If you are using UVB tubes then a T8 or a T5 setup can be used. T5's are the newer version with an improved output but both can be used. T5/8 refers to the diameter of a tube being used so it is important to ensure that the starter/controller matches as well as the reflector to ensure it fits.
Yet again debated in the community! With some keepers opting not to use lighting...but here are some great choices i recommend looking at.
Though Cresties do not "need" the provision of UVB lighting, they do need D3 to process Calcium. UVB Lighting provides this in a more natural way for cresties, even when hiding they would be exposed to light scatter. The alternative is using a supplement.
More and more keepers are experimenting and recommending using UVB (myself included), with 5% being the most commonly used percentage at the moment, though i use 10% myself as do others. Those that choose to use UVB have yet again commented on the improvements they have seen with their geckos, with some even openly basking. They give out very little heat so should not be relied on as a form of heating. If you choose UVB then please combine with a reflector to get the most out of your tubes or canopy! Arcadia provide a great range in products for using UVB and i recommend taking a look.
If you are using UVB tubes then a T8 or a T5 setup can be used. T5's are the newer version with an improved output but both can be used. T5/8 refers to the diameter of a tube being used so it is important to ensure that the starter/controller matches as well as the reflector to ensure it fits.
Image to the Right displays TWO types of coil bulbs that are also used for UVB, These are basic E27 fixtures and designed to be used in canopies like Exo Terra. If you are wanting to use a bulb then i urge you to use the Linear style (again Arcadia have these as do reptisun) as the output is superior to the traditional design which are imo poorly designed.
Other methods of providing lighting are via a light emitting bulb (if you choose this heating method), full spectrum tubes/Plant grow tubes/ Arcadia Jungle dawn LED (great for those with live plants and promoting growth) and the use of LED spot light or strips (these give off very low-zero heat). These are available in a choice of colours for if you wish to have night time viewing (Red being the most common, with blue close behind)....though i would still recommend that this lighting gets turned off once you go too bed. |
Humidity
Crested geckos, like I’ve mentioned, are a humidity loving species! This means daily misting via a squirty bottle or misting system. The time of year and enclosure/ambient temperatures will dictate how often these guys get misted. During the winter this can mean as little as once a day, with the summer as much as 3 times! The important thing to remember is that they need a cycle rather than a constant high. This means the enclosure needs time to dry between misting’s. If you wish to visually monitor then a digital hygrometer can be used. Though IMO this isn’t a massively important bit of equipment as you should be able to tell if the enclosure itself is still wet or could do with a squirt :) . Another point to be made in regards to Humidity is that it goes hand in hand with hydrating your gecko (which in turn affects shedding). Though they will use a small water bowl, crested geckos will also lap at droplets on leaves and branches. If your humidity is not enough then your gecko could start having bad/patchy shed’s that they will need aid removing, as well as the chance of becoming dehydrated. Equally, do not keep it constantly wet...like i said, a cycle is needed, the enclosure must dry between misting. Too wet constantly can also cause problems of it's own. |
Co habitation.
Though these geckos do not require company, they can be kept in pairs of females or small groups. In this case, close attention should be paid for any signs of bullying and a spare enclosure put away in case of separation. Avoid owning more cresties then you could house separately to start with!
They do not always cohab successfully.
Any or a combination of the following may indicate a problem:
- Consistent chasing
- Squeaking
- Tail shaking and/or Tail lose
- Injury
- Biting/nips
- Weight lose
- Any behavior not deemed normal for the individual
If in doubt, separate.
When thinking of co-habbing there are a couple of things you can do to help reduce the risk of bullying (though it won’t completely negate it).
- Sex should be confirmed. (prior to approximately 25g of weight, a female sex can be obtained via pore sexing, However not all females are easy to identify and males have been known to develop late. Even seasoned breeders can be caught out at times so this should be considered before thinking about cohabbing.)
- Match your cresties up in size/weights best you can.
- Have a large enclosure.
- Provide lots of additional hiding places.
- Use multiple feeding stations.
Please note! All new additions to your household should be quarantined (at least a month but 3-6 months is recommended) as best you can away from your current reptiles to start with! Keep Current reptiles safe! Please see Health for more info.
Co habbing a male and female pair year round should be avoided imo due to the stress this may put on not only the female but the male. They should be separated imo if not breeding/after breeding to allow them to regain condition and reduce pestering. Females should be at least 40g and 2 years of age before considering introducing a male which is why sex should be confirmed first.
Mixed pairs and groups WILL result in egg laying (though it is not uncommon for females to produce infertile eggs). This again takes a lot out of a female (and under the wrong conditions, at risk) who on average will lay two eggs every 4-5 weeks….depending on the female, this can mean 5 + clutches per year.
Lastly....please note that having more than one male per enclosure is also NOT usually recommended, cohab as a whole can cause a ruckus amongst keepers in online communities (which is no different than any other community to be fair), Male to Male being the penultimate taboo for many. There have been cases where people have successfully had male pairs, however I do not see these with any kind of regular frequency, It's not something i personally have done, nor curious enough to want to do though.
Whilst I've explained a little with cohabbing, if you are here then theirs a good chance you are new to cresties or even reptiles as a whole. I do not recommend cohab if you are new.
Don't rush things, get to know your crestie(s), they all have their own unique and wonderful personalities! Not only can knowing your cresties help if you did want to consider cohab later.....but its half the fun! so don't miss out :)
Breeding
This care guide will not have a "how to breed" section i'm afraid...My personal aim is to help new keepers care for the geckos they have first. :)
Take your time and have fun!! If later you wish to try breeding then do it for the right reasons :)
Diet
There are plenty of good CGD’s (complete gecko diets) now available with these guys….gone are the days of baby food! (which has proven to be very bad for them!)
CGD's that are easily obtained here in the UK Via geckodiet.co.uk are...
There are plenty of good CGD’s (complete gecko diets) now available with these guys….gone are the days of baby food! (which has proven to be very bad for them!)
CGD's that are easily obtained here in the UK Via geckodiet.co.uk are...
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If its not on then list above then it'll be for one of the following reasons..
Those of you in the U.S, Canada or elsewhere will be able to order via the makers/producer of each CGD or from many sellers, The U.S most recommended currently is Bertopia Geckos....i recommend joining a crested gecko facebook page where many will be able to point you to your nearest CGD provider if you are struggling.
You can can try ebay, amazon and contacting geckodiet or the suppler for shipping costs :)
CGD is mixed with a small amount of water till it’s like yogurt and can be served in bowls, milk caps and similar lids. It should be available at all times and replaced every 48hrs.
Geckos can be fed solely on CGD though a mix of live food is greatly recommended for not only diet variety in combination with CGD but mental stimulation.
- Not a complete diet. (please see the Diet page for a small list of what can still be used under certain circumstances.)
- Not considered a good complete diet.
- New or no longer available.
- Various keeper experience has been poor.
Those of you in the U.S, Canada or elsewhere will be able to order via the makers/producer of each CGD or from many sellers, The U.S most recommended currently is Bertopia Geckos....i recommend joining a crested gecko facebook page where many will be able to point you to your nearest CGD provider if you are struggling.
You can can try ebay, amazon and contacting geckodiet or the suppler for shipping costs :)
CGD is mixed with a small amount of water till it’s like yogurt and can be served in bowls, milk caps and similar lids. It should be available at all times and replaced every 48hrs.
Geckos can be fed solely on CGD though a mix of live food is greatly recommended for not only diet variety in combination with CGD but mental stimulation.
There are vast amounts of live food you can use if you wish; the general rule is the width between your gecko’s eyes for sizing.
Some insects that can be used are...
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Important thing to remember is to gut load any live food, this means feed it and generally look after it right up till it becomes dinner. Live food should also be dusted with a small amount of calcium.
Those that do not provide UV will want to make sure that it is calcium that contains D3!
Typically those that use live food offer once or twice a week. If using crickets then I would remove any left come the morning initially so you can see if/how many may of been eaten. I also recommend leaving a chunk of fruit (not citrus) or veg in the enclosure (though some will munch on CGD too if leaving them in) as it'll give them something to eat. This will help keep them gutloaded and prevent nipping to the crestie from a hungry/starved cricket as an example.
It should be noted that i personally (as do a few others) like to provide a little bit of plain calcium in a milk lid (again - non-UV users will need one with D3) at all times in the enclosure as i have witnessed the majority of my cresties self regulating to a degree. Some keepers and breeders will offer this to laying and gravid females. It's a preference :)
Let’s not forget little treats!
Mashed up ripe fruit make a great treat for your gecko! Papaya, Fig, Pears and various berries to name but a few!
Bee pollen powder, you only need a smidge to mix in.
A drizzle of honey mixed with either the fruit or CDG as an occasional treat may also be used.
But be aware…
Those that do not provide UV will want to make sure that it is calcium that contains D3!
Typically those that use live food offer once or twice a week. If using crickets then I would remove any left come the morning initially so you can see if/how many may of been eaten. I also recommend leaving a chunk of fruit (not citrus) or veg in the enclosure (though some will munch on CGD too if leaving them in) as it'll give them something to eat. This will help keep them gutloaded and prevent nipping to the crestie from a hungry/starved cricket as an example.
It should be noted that i personally (as do a few others) like to provide a little bit of plain calcium in a milk lid (again - non-UV users will need one with D3) at all times in the enclosure as i have witnessed the majority of my cresties self regulating to a degree. Some keepers and breeders will offer this to laying and gravid females. It's a preference :)
Let’s not forget little treats!
Mashed up ripe fruit make a great treat for your gecko! Papaya, Fig, Pears and various berries to name but a few!
Bee pollen powder, you only need a smidge to mix in.
A drizzle of honey mixed with either the fruit or CDG as an occasional treat may also be used.
But be aware…
The Big food no no's!
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- Jelly Pots! A recent craze and trend has seen these becoming popular! They contain citric acid, they have 0 nutritional value and can be addictive for cresties. They were designed to be fed to livefood and inverts NOT reptiles.
For more information please check out the Diet section :)
Finally! Few items of interest that I always think is wise to read up on (can be found in the health section).
- MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease).
- FTS (Floppy Tail Syndrome).
- Internal parasites and testing.
Thanks for reading, you've all been magic!
If I’ve failed to please every crestie keeper then...Opps! :P Crested gecko care is a mine field of different information, welcome to the ranks and you have been warned ;)