The Main health issues you may encounter..
There are are a small number of big health issues and concerns affecting cresties, some have short hand for these that will be commonly used in the crestie communities. Now this is a relatively long page for me so grab a cuppa. This is by no means a definitive list, just the most common.
Most common issues affecting Cresties are..
Important things to note in regards to the top two...they are not curable, they are however manageable to avoid it progressing further. They also primarily occur due to something being amiss with the diet or husbandry.
Most common issues affecting Cresties are..
- MBD - Metabolic bone disease
- FST - Floppy tail syndrome.
- Dehydration
- Stuck shed
- Worms, Parasites and Mites
- Tail dropping
Important things to note in regards to the top two...they are not curable, they are however manageable to avoid it progressing further. They also primarily occur due to something being amiss with the diet or husbandry.
Metabolic Bone Disease
What is MBD? Metabolic Bone Disease, more commonly known in the reptile communities as MBD is basically a Calcium and/or D3 deficiency which in turn has weakened the bones leading to fractures, breakages and abnormalities in its structure. MBD can also cause fits and lose of the ability to stick/climb. |
Rescue Bindi owned by JPS Geckos: MBD and FTS
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What causes MBD?
The leading causes of MBD all comes down to diet! An incorrect diet that is not catered fully to your gecko will lack the Calcium and/or D3 required to support bone growth and bone density. A good Cal intake..and D3 if you're not using any UV lighting (UV lighting emits D3)... is essential to your crestie. Those that are even more at risk are the young and laying females (prone to calcium crashes if not given a good supple.).
Can MBD be cured?
No. Unfortunately once your gecko has developed MBD, there is no cure. However! Sometimes It can be managed by making the necessary changes in diet and many keepers have found that supplying a 10% UV tube (sounds high, but it really isn't after the mesh has filtered 50%) has helped with giving a good supply of D3. I say sometimes for a reason, In cases of a rescue and extreme, advanced cases of MBD, taking to the vet to be put to sleep is by far the kindest thing you can do. Remember...Quality of life. There is no quality in the extreme cases....Fits, unable to move properly if at all and unable to eat properly due to deformed jaw. In those cases we can not begin to know the impact on the gecko beyond the visual.
The leading causes of MBD all comes down to diet! An incorrect diet that is not catered fully to your gecko will lack the Calcium and/or D3 required to support bone growth and bone density. A good Cal intake..and D3 if you're not using any UV lighting (UV lighting emits D3)... is essential to your crestie. Those that are even more at risk are the young and laying females (prone to calcium crashes if not given a good supple.).
Can MBD be cured?
No. Unfortunately once your gecko has developed MBD, there is no cure. However! Sometimes It can be managed by making the necessary changes in diet and many keepers have found that supplying a 10% UV tube (sounds high, but it really isn't after the mesh has filtered 50%) has helped with giving a good supply of D3. I say sometimes for a reason, In cases of a rescue and extreme, advanced cases of MBD, taking to the vet to be put to sleep is by far the kindest thing you can do. Remember...Quality of life. There is no quality in the extreme cases....Fits, unable to move properly if at all and unable to eat properly due to deformed jaw. In those cases we can not begin to know the impact on the gecko beyond the visual.
Courtesy of Kim Kirk after rescuing Inky, extreme MBD (broken Jaw not pictured), malnourished and dehydrated.
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Signs of MBD
Most at risk?
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What can I do to help?
There are many ways to help manage, Using UV as i have already stated can be of benefit! Those that have more than a crinkly tail may need a short setup to reduce any chance of them hurting themselves (poor climbing/movement).
Ensure your providing a Good CGD, adding extra cal (powder or liquid) can also help though be careful...When used it can help, but i do not advise it for every meal or in large quantities (sprinkle or a droplet is enough to food)...signs of TOO MUCH (OD) are very similar to that of MBD. I also advise a milk lid of cal powder (plus D3 if you're not using UV) in the enclosure...crestie are able to self supplement to a degree and will make use of it as and when in various quantities. And finally...if they will eat live then make sure it is dusted prior offering and gut-loaded for at least 24 hours prior use.
Floppy Tail Syndrome
What is FTS?
Floppy tail syndrome is a relatively common issue in crestie keeping. This is where The muscles at the base of the tail become weakened and the weight of tail slowly flops to one side or behind when upside down due to the tails weight.
What causes FTS?
There are a few things that can contribute to this condition starting and/or progressing, lack of climbing and/or Decoration in the enclosure being the main one. When there is a lack of one or the other this can force the gecko to sleep on the glass, most typically, upside down. There are also some geckos that sleep in fashion despite having a filled up enclosure merely because that's how they like to sleep. FTS is a environment issue and has not been proven to be genetic.
Can FTS be cure?
No, It is yet one of those things that can not be cured, just managed to stop it progressing any further. In extreme cases where the base of the tail has become twisted/angled severely over time then a reptile vet can be consulted to discuss the possibility of a tail drop. DO NOT force a tail drop yourself, tail dropping is extremely stressful to a crestie, it is their defence mechanism. Tails will not be regenerated like in some other gecko species. Within the crestie community you will come across those recommending it, i for one do not support it and urge people, especially new keepers, to seek a specialist.
What are the symptoms of FTS?
A tail should flow from the spine with ease and without interruption.
What can i do to avoid/manage FTS?
Key point in regards to FTS!
There is some debate whether females with FTS should be bred from, I have edited the FTS section heavily due to learning more about it over the last year or so...and i would hate to give you old/rehashed advice. It was previously thought to twist the pelvis, x rays have since disproven this, showing the damage to not be in the pelvis region itself but in the base of the tail. Because of this some breeders will breed an FTS female as it is no longer considered to be a risk to laying or contributing issue to egg binding (especially as it is not proven to be genetic as mentioned). With that in mind it is up to the Keeper's and breeder's themselves whether they wish to breed :)
There are many ways to help manage, Using UV as i have already stated can be of benefit! Those that have more than a crinkly tail may need a short setup to reduce any chance of them hurting themselves (poor climbing/movement).
Ensure your providing a Good CGD, adding extra cal (powder or liquid) can also help though be careful...When used it can help, but i do not advise it for every meal or in large quantities (sprinkle or a droplet is enough to food)...signs of TOO MUCH (OD) are very similar to that of MBD. I also advise a milk lid of cal powder (plus D3 if you're not using UV) in the enclosure...crestie are able to self supplement to a degree and will make use of it as and when in various quantities. And finally...if they will eat live then make sure it is dusted prior offering and gut-loaded for at least 24 hours prior use.
Floppy Tail Syndrome
What is FTS?
Floppy tail syndrome is a relatively common issue in crestie keeping. This is where The muscles at the base of the tail become weakened and the weight of tail slowly flops to one side or behind when upside down due to the tails weight.
What causes FTS?
There are a few things that can contribute to this condition starting and/or progressing, lack of climbing and/or Decoration in the enclosure being the main one. When there is a lack of one or the other this can force the gecko to sleep on the glass, most typically, upside down. There are also some geckos that sleep in fashion despite having a filled up enclosure merely because that's how they like to sleep. FTS is a environment issue and has not been proven to be genetic.
Can FTS be cure?
No, It is yet one of those things that can not be cured, just managed to stop it progressing any further. In extreme cases where the base of the tail has become twisted/angled severely over time then a reptile vet can be consulted to discuss the possibility of a tail drop. DO NOT force a tail drop yourself, tail dropping is extremely stressful to a crestie, it is their defence mechanism. Tails will not be regenerated like in some other gecko species. Within the crestie community you will come across those recommending it, i for one do not support it and urge people, especially new keepers, to seek a specialist.
What are the symptoms of FTS?
- Unable to support tail when upside...it'll lean to either a side or directly behind.
- The base of the tail area will be *Jarred* to one side or the side view of the gecko when laid straight will yield a hump effect on/near the base. In cases of frog-bums this will still be evident in the stump region.
A tail should flow from the spine with ease and without interruption.
What can i do to avoid/manage FTS?
- Ensure there is horizontal climbing of some description.
- Plenty of plants to the sides, some geckos will sleep upside down despite everything you do...ensure there is stuff for the tail to grip onto, plants are perfect! This supports the tail in this position and stops the weight from flopping over.
- Discourage sleeping upside down, just gently wake them/rearrange them whenever you see them sleeping like this.
Key point in regards to FTS!
There is some debate whether females with FTS should be bred from, I have edited the FTS section heavily due to learning more about it over the last year or so...and i would hate to give you old/rehashed advice. It was previously thought to twist the pelvis, x rays have since disproven this, showing the damage to not be in the pelvis region itself but in the base of the tail. Because of this some breeders will breed an FTS female as it is no longer considered to be a risk to laying or contributing issue to egg binding (especially as it is not proven to be genetic as mentioned). With that in mind it is up to the Keeper's and breeder's themselves whether they wish to breed :)
Dehydration and Shedding
Very commonly seen and can be easily avoided, If a gecko is dehydrated then 9/10 this is a husbandry issue. Misting should become either heavier or more frequent in this case, if you're using heat then your temps should be checked, too warm over an extended period of time can cause dehydration or a shorter humidity cycle, so lowing heating or spraying more often if the temp increase is seasonal should help resolve this. I completely recommend offering a waterbowl for cresties, yes they will drink from water droplets but cresties are also capable of drinking from a bowl :)
Symptoms of dehydration
Symptoms of stuck shed
Very commonly seen and can be easily avoided, If a gecko is dehydrated then 9/10 this is a husbandry issue. Misting should become either heavier or more frequent in this case, if you're using heat then your temps should be checked, too warm over an extended period of time can cause dehydration or a shorter humidity cycle, so lowing heating or spraying more often if the temp increase is seasonal should help resolve this. I completely recommend offering a waterbowl for cresties, yes they will drink from water droplets but cresties are also capable of drinking from a bowl :)
Symptoms of dehydration
- Sunken eyes
- Loose skin
- Unable to stick to surfaces
- Fatigue
- Patchy sheds/ stuck shed
- Wavy tail (sometimes confused with MBD)
Symptoms of stuck shed
- Patchy skin that will feel slightly rough
- unable to stick properly to surface
- Toes or tail tip (main areas) will have a sock affect
- If left or there is multiple layers then there will be constriction of the limb, possible spot bleeding and further discolouration that can lead to lose of limb
Treatment
In most cases simply adjusting your humidity cycle will go a long way to resolve this :) Though it should be noted that humidity will not always equal hydrated, ensure a water bowl is available at all times and when ambients rise during the warmer months...mist lightly and a little for frequently as well as your usual heavy mist (mine is at lights out for example), this is not for humidity, this is for hydration :) For the cresties themselves then some time placed in a *sauna* can help more directly, do not bath a crestie! A sauna is when we use a box (plastic container with ventilation or cricket tub), place some kitchen roll/ paper towels at the bottom and well mist with room temp water. This is a great tool for helping with mild dehydration and a good way to soften the skin so you are able to help remove any stuck shed. In some cases of dehydration or shed issues then this method may be needed a few times :) |
What a gecko sauna should look like along with tepid water.
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For removing shed once softened then a you can use a q-tip, small tweezers or your own nail to gently peel the old skin away. its a lengthy process so it is important that not only you are comfortable but so is your crestie. Gentle but firm grip and take your time! if at any point you notice stress then stop for a couple of hours, re sauna and try again :)
With severe cases of dehydration then a vet will be needed, products like Vetark Reptoboost can be used as an aid to help hydrate but get your crestie checked out to ensure there are no other issues. Severe Shed may also need vet treatment. Toes and tails are the most likely to be affected, stuck shed can tighten over time, and a build up of more than one shed can happen which will have a constricting response on a limb. If not removed then blood circulation can become poor to the point that the tip or toes will die.
Parasites, Worms and Mites
Now this can affect any reptile! Good hygiene is important when dealing between existing reptiles and those in quarantine, not your own or wild caught reptiles (WC - Wild caught cresties are not available on the market).
Mites
A small external organism that will appear black/brown dots, feeds of the blood from your beloved (in this case) crestie. In small numbers they can be hard to detect, once they start to multiple though they will become more noticeable around crevices areas...eyes, ears and vent, you crestie may even go off their food. If left untreated it can lead to bacterial infections. Both enclosure and gecko will need to be treated and strict hygiene in place, they can and will hitch-hike on clothes, decor or travel between enclosures.
There are products designed for this, speak to your vet about the best product to use and avoid using some of the DIY approaches to mite treatment, what may have worked for one person or species could react badly for another and therefore not worth the risk as a new keeper.
For those of you going planted and bioactive, don't despair! As people are coming back into a bioactive way of thinking, treatment is slowly following suit. I'd strongly advise you look into defender mites as a non-chemical approach to dealing with mites. Combined with this a UK keeper has also noticed that springtails may be eating mite eggs and therefore ending the cycle....the observations were based on snake mites but it's definitely food for thought! Reference to this can be found here if you're interested in reading about it :)
Parasites and worms
In complete contrast these are the internal nuisances that you may come across. Like the Mites, you may not notice these straight away so i'll list some things to watch out for. In a perfect world all new cresties should be tested on purchase and at regular intervals thereafter :)
It is important to get your crestie tested and quarantined if you suspect either of these, severe infestations can lead to a crestie deteriorating quickly and could be fatal.
To test you will need to collect a few samples of the freshest poops you can find and either visit you local reptile vet or send of for a testing kit at PALs (UK)
This website lists a little bit more in detail about worms and parasites found in reptiles :)
PAL's
With severe cases of dehydration then a vet will be needed, products like Vetark Reptoboost can be used as an aid to help hydrate but get your crestie checked out to ensure there are no other issues. Severe Shed may also need vet treatment. Toes and tails are the most likely to be affected, stuck shed can tighten over time, and a build up of more than one shed can happen which will have a constricting response on a limb. If not removed then blood circulation can become poor to the point that the tip or toes will die.
Parasites, Worms and Mites
Now this can affect any reptile! Good hygiene is important when dealing between existing reptiles and those in quarantine, not your own or wild caught reptiles (WC - Wild caught cresties are not available on the market).
Mites
A small external organism that will appear black/brown dots, feeds of the blood from your beloved (in this case) crestie. In small numbers they can be hard to detect, once they start to multiple though they will become more noticeable around crevices areas...eyes, ears and vent, you crestie may even go off their food. If left untreated it can lead to bacterial infections. Both enclosure and gecko will need to be treated and strict hygiene in place, they can and will hitch-hike on clothes, decor or travel between enclosures.
There are products designed for this, speak to your vet about the best product to use and avoid using some of the DIY approaches to mite treatment, what may have worked for one person or species could react badly for another and therefore not worth the risk as a new keeper.
For those of you going planted and bioactive, don't despair! As people are coming back into a bioactive way of thinking, treatment is slowly following suit. I'd strongly advise you look into defender mites as a non-chemical approach to dealing with mites. Combined with this a UK keeper has also noticed that springtails may be eating mite eggs and therefore ending the cycle....the observations were based on snake mites but it's definitely food for thought! Reference to this can be found here if you're interested in reading about it :)
Parasites and worms
In complete contrast these are the internal nuisances that you may come across. Like the Mites, you may not notice these straight away so i'll list some things to watch out for. In a perfect world all new cresties should be tested on purchase and at regular intervals thereafter :)
- Rapid loss of weight despite eating
- Rapid loss of weight and not eating (the key here is rapid, not eating can mean many things, time frame and other symptoms is important)
- Eating substrate/soil can indicate the presence of either
- Consistently straining/dodgy/runny poops, you may even find a worm if worms are present.
It is important to get your crestie tested and quarantined if you suspect either of these, severe infestations can lead to a crestie deteriorating quickly and could be fatal.
To test you will need to collect a few samples of the freshest poops you can find and either visit you local reptile vet or send of for a testing kit at PALs (UK)
This website lists a little bit more in detail about worms and parasites found in reptiles :)
PAL's
Picture courtesy of Gary from Crestie Jungle
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Tail Dropping
Probably the most common thing you will see with cresties.....Frog bums. Cresties do not regenerate their tails, once its gone its gone. It is not always an indicator of bad husbandry or neglect, they have evolved to do this as a defence mechanism and can drop it for many reasons. No wild adults have ever been found with a tail still attached as yet. Now...don't be going and treating you crestie like glass, along with the many reasons, there are also a variety of personalities that are either bomb proof or of a delicate nature from the start, so its no good panicking about the what ifs as its also an individual thing. |
Common known reasons for tail drop
Not all cresties scare so easily, just like not all coup well with certain situations and some will drop out of the blue over something that previously hadn't bothered them before. Take it in your stride.
If this happens to you then there is still no reason to panic :)
You might see lots of keepers suggesting treating it, removing them to a new setup or striping the existing....STOP right there! :P
There is really no need, crestie has evolved to do this and infection after dropping is rare. Blood to the tail is cut of when its dropped so any bleeding will be very short lived and light. Moving your crestie or changing the set up is only going to add to the stress of your gecko. My advise?
Leave them completely and utterly alone to adjust and resettle. Keep an eye on them, mist as normal and feed as normal....if the routine stays the same then your crestie will more than likely settle back down in no time.
I've had two cresties drop tails with me and did as i've advised with both :) You may find they go off food for a few nights (normal), a bit more clumsy with climbing/ jumping (normal) and hide a bit more for a few days (normal) but they adjust extremely well and very quickly :)
A Crestie that has dropped their tail will over time develop a "nub" where the tail used to be. This nub can vary from small and nubby to rather long, reminiscing that of a stinger almost. Both are normal and nothing to be concerned about.
And done!! Issues and health concerns are not limited to what i have written, i've merely touched on what can commonly affect our wee ones. If you are ever in doubt.........go to your nearest reptile vet! The internet is no substitute where the health of you pet is concerned.
Common known reasons for tail drop
- Stressed/ Scared/ Startled
- Mating
- Fighting
- Tail caught/ Injury
- Sometimes completely unexplained
Not all cresties scare so easily, just like not all coup well with certain situations and some will drop out of the blue over something that previously hadn't bothered them before. Take it in your stride.
If this happens to you then there is still no reason to panic :)
You might see lots of keepers suggesting treating it, removing them to a new setup or striping the existing....STOP right there! :P
There is really no need, crestie has evolved to do this and infection after dropping is rare. Blood to the tail is cut of when its dropped so any bleeding will be very short lived and light. Moving your crestie or changing the set up is only going to add to the stress of your gecko. My advise?
Leave them completely and utterly alone to adjust and resettle. Keep an eye on them, mist as normal and feed as normal....if the routine stays the same then your crestie will more than likely settle back down in no time.
I've had two cresties drop tails with me and did as i've advised with both :) You may find they go off food for a few nights (normal), a bit more clumsy with climbing/ jumping (normal) and hide a bit more for a few days (normal) but they adjust extremely well and very quickly :)
A Crestie that has dropped their tail will over time develop a "nub" where the tail used to be. This nub can vary from small and nubby to rather long, reminiscing that of a stinger almost. Both are normal and nothing to be concerned about.
And done!! Issues and health concerns are not limited to what i have written, i've merely touched on what can commonly affect our wee ones. If you are ever in doubt.........go to your nearest reptile vet! The internet is no substitute where the health of you pet is concerned.